Best Book List:
Tony Astill's Top 100 British Mountaineering Books
Tony Astill is the author of Mount Everest: The Reconnaissance 1935, The Forgotten Adventure (see review). As a mountaineering historian from the UK, he couldn't be in a better position to assemble a list of the best British mountaineering books. But the list is not Tony's alone. It's a combination effort. It was put together based on forum discussions and voting among readers of mountaineering literature. He tweaks the list from time to time as discussions and voting continues, and the most recent updated list is found below.
Why a British mountaineering list? Because the Brits can write! An adventurous, restless spirit combined with the innate ability to tell a story through words must be hardwired into the British character. Included among the British climbing fraternity are some of the world's greatest and most prolific mountaineers. It was British climbers that ushered in the golden age of mountaineering in the Alps. It was the British that made some of the first and most remarkable attempts (and successes) on the highest peaks in the world.
Many of these books are out-of-print, but they are carried by, and may be purchased directly from, Tony's Astill's on-line store at: Les Alpes Livres. His site also includes wonderful old mountaineering art. For books, click on the "Mountaineering Books" link on his site. The books are divided up by region. The prices are in pounds & euros (but he also can deal with American dollars). To order a book found on his site, drop Tony an email with the name of the book, and he'll send the book with an invoice for payment. Yep. You heard that right. Isn't that a refreshing way to do business!
Here's the list . . .
Ordered by Author:
Abraham ROCK-CLIMBING IN NORTH WALES. 1906
One of the unsurpassed classic trilogy which covered rock climbing of the day
Abraham ROCK-CLIMBING IN SKYE. 1908
This brilliant tome has never been reprinted - why?
Archer Thomson and Andrews THE CLIMBS ON LLIWEDD. 1909
An early guide book, setting the standard still, almost, followed today.
Auldjo NARRATIVE OF AN ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF MONT BLANC, 1828
The first Mont Blanc' narrative' not privately published and therefore available to the public. Went into four editions
Band SUMMIT. 2006
The Alpine Club 150th anniversary celebrate the history of the club.
Barker THE LAST BLUE MOUNTAIN. 1959
This book has always appeared in
Bell A PROGRESS IN MOUNTAINEERING. 1950
Not rated by Neate, but a favourite of mine!
Benson BRITISH MOUNTAINEERING. 1909
Not possible to exclude this one, it's such a joy.
Blackshaw MOUNTAINEERING. 1965
The mountaineering bible. A fine contribution to mountaineering. Without reading this instructional gem some of us might not have returned safely from the hills.
Boardman THE SHINING MOUNTAIN. 1978
Two men on 'the hardest thing in the Himalayas' - Changabang's West Wall.
Bonington I CHOSE TO CLIMB. 1966
Annapurna South Face might be his best book?
Borthwick ALWAYS A LITTLE FURTHER. 1939
Honest and readable climbing reminescences including the Creagh Dhu Club
Bourdillon VISIT TO THE SHERPAS. 1956
Jennifer Bourdillon, whose husband Tom was with the British Himalayan expedition in 1952, became the first 'white' woman to live among the Sherpas.
Braham WHEN THE ALPS CAST THERE SPELL. 2004
A worthy, if surprising winner of the Boardman Tasker for mountaineering literature.
Brown BRENVA. 1945
Brown was obsessed by the Brenva Face which inspired him to write this alpine classic, the first since 1900?
Brown HAMISH'S MOUNTAIN WALK. 1978
Hamish does the Munro's in a single trip.
Brown THE HARD YEARS. 1967
Joe Brown as told by JB? About time this reclusive rock-climbing hero let us know what he's been up to since.
Brown & De Beer THE FIRST ASCENT OF MONT BLANC. 1957
Two of the finest Alpine historians credit Dr. Paccard, the man who started the sport of mountaineering.
Byne & Sutton HIGH PEAK. 1966
The only history of gritstone climbing.
Carr DEATH ON MILESTONE BUTTRESS. 1951
Sir Abercrombie Lewker is an essential character to be included in a celebration of climbing fiction by Showell Styles. The charismatic detective appeared in a total of fourteen mysteries.
Cave LEARNING TO BREATHE. 2005
A fascinating tale of the metamorphosis of a climber.
Clark THE VICTORIAN MOUNTAINEERS. 1953
Sorry - another Batsford of mountaineering history, but which focuses on the personalities.
Clark & Pyatt MOUNTAINEERING IN BRITAIN. 1957
Who else but Ted Pyatt could have written the first book to chart the history of rock-climbing in Britain.
Cleare & Smythe ROCK CLIMBERS IN ACTION IN SNOWDONIA. 1966
Iconic climbing photography
Collie CLIMBING ON THE HIMALAYA AND OTHER MOUNTAIN RANGES. 1902
Collie managed to climb all over the world. But this is such a rare and expensive book that few will have the chance to read it.
Conway THE ALPS FROM END TO END. 1900
An epic journey along the length of the Alps
Coxhead ONE GREEN BOTTLE. 1951
Possibly the finest of all mountaineering fiction?
Dent MOUNTAINEERING. 1892
Clinton Dent's writing embellished by Willink illustrations - nothing better!
Edwards UNTRODDEN PEAKS AND UNFREQUENTED VALLEYS. 1873
Before everyone took a midsummer ramble!
Evans KANGCHENJUNGA THE UNTRODDEN PEAK. 1956
A great expedition book telling the story of the 1st ascent of the 3rd highest mountain in the world, although the summit was left
Faux HIGH AMBITION. 1982
Perhaps this was written to early in the life of the great man. Will Messner bring it up to date one day.
Finch THE MAKING OF A MOUNTAINEER. 1924
Finch was not as popular as his book!
Fitz Gerald CLIMBS IN THE NEW ZEALAND ALPS. 1896
There are many, many books of New Zealand mountaineering. This was the first and remains the greatest.
FitzSimons THE BARON OF PICCADILLY. 1967
Albert Smith - the inventor of Mont Blanc, fortunately. Here told by a faithful admirer.
Forbes NORWAY AND ITS GLACIERS VISITED IN 1851. 1853
Illustrated by the first chromolithographs of mountain scenery - wonderful and so, if only for that reason alone
Forbes TRAVELS THROUGH THE ALPS OF SAVOY. 1845
Forbes was a scientist and first to systematically explore the alpine mountain regions
Freshfield ROUND KANGCHENJUNGA. 1903
The circuit of Kangchenjunga undertaken at the turn of the century was an exceedingly serious undertaking.
Freshfield THE EXPLORATION OF THE CAUCASUS. 1896
This is a masterpiece in two volumes packed with some of the finest photography by Vittorio Sella and handsomely produced.
The contibutors to THE ALPINE JOURNAL. 1864 - present
Of Alpine Journals there is only one and the History of mountaineering graces it's pages. Priceless!
Gilbert and Churchill THE DOLOMITE MOUNTAINS. 1864
A delightful early book on the Dolomites, beautifully illustrated
Gillman THE WILDEST DREAM. 2000
By far the most enjoyable Mallory biography and hugely well researched.
Gribble THE EARLY MOUNTAINEERS. 1899
The history of the sport before the 'Golden Age'
Hankinson THE FIRST TIGERS. 1972
The first tigers, not really, but a charming history of Lakeland climbing.
Haston IN HIGH PLACES. 1973
Haston of course was different. Had he not gone out ski-ing then we might have seen the greatest ever mountaineer - if there is such a thing..
Hinchliff SUMMER MONTHS AMONG THE ALPS: 1857
A book which influenced members of the Alpine Club about thier sport of the time
Humble THE CUILLIN OF SKYE. 1952
Humble or Poucher? Skye is the mecca and this is the history of it's climbing.
Hunt THE ASCENT OF EVEREST. 1953
A fantastic record of a great achievement.
Irving A HISTORY OF BRITISH MOUNTAINEERING. 1955
An attractive Batsford book which covers British mountaineering worldwide.
Jones ROCK-CLIMBING IN THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT. 1897
By the master of early climbing in Britain and the Alps.
Jones and Millburn WELSH ROCK. 1986
Millburn deserves to be included on effort alone.
Kilgour TWENTY YEARS ON BEN NEVIS. 1905
The highest hut in the British Isles occupied by the weather man.
Kirkpatrick PHYSCHOVERTICAL. 2008
BT winner 2009. The boy continues to do well.
Longstaff THIS MY VOYAGE. 1951
For many years Longstaff, in his ascent of Trisul, had climbed higher than anyone. This is a fascinating autobiography.
Mason ABODE OF SNOW. 1955
The first chronicle of Himalayan mountaineering and exploration.
Mason RUNNING WATER. 1907
Brenva route, so tie onto your chair before reading it!
McCormick AN ARTIST IN THE HIMALAYAS. 1895
McCormick was a decent artist and illustrated most of Conway's books. He must have produced thousands of sketches recording what he saw on his journeys.
Moffat TWO STAR RED. 1964
Perhaps this is a little of a luxury to include here, but nevertheless a story which deserved to be written
Moore THE ALPS IN 1864. 1867
1902 saw a public edition of this otherwise elusive title of which only 100 copies were originally printed.
Morris CORONATION EVEREST. 1958
For me, this is the most entertaining book of the 1953 British Mount Everest Expedition
Mummery MY CLIMBS IN THE ALPS AND CAUCASUS. 1895
Fortunately he wrote this delightful book before leaving us on Nanga Parbat
Murray UNDISCOVERED SCOTLAND. 1951
Which is this better? This or 'Mountaineering in Scotland'?
Neate MOUNTAINEERING AND ITS LITERATURE. 1978
Bill/Jill produced this highly anticipated bibliography. It was the first having not been bettered. Mountaineering Club Library catalogues list more books, but are quite boring.
Norton THE FIGHT FOR EVEREST: 1924. 1925
Everyone knows about the disappearance of Mallory & Irvine
Noyce SOUTH COL. 1954
Noyce the scholar and poet certainly had a writing gift.
Pares HIMALAYAN HONEYMOON. 1940
Miss Pares bumps into the 1938 Everest expedition whilst on her honeymoon in Sikkim. Subsequently she illustrated the dustwrappers of Eric Shipton's books including 'Blank on the Map'
Patey ONE MAN'S MOUNTAINS. 1971
We can't include so many biographies can we?
Perrin THE VILLAIN. 2005
Perrin still gets undeserved criticism for his efforts, although it was rightfully recognised as a brilliant piece of writing. It's not easy writing a bigraphy!
Pilley CLIMBING DAYS. 1935
Her first and only book is a classic which would have won all the mountaineering literature prizes - had there been any then!
Poucher THE MAGIC OF SKYE. 1949
Of all the Poucher mountain photographic books this is by far the finest.
Pye GEORGE LEIGH MALLORY. 1927
This first set the standard for all Mallory books - of which there are 100's!
Roberts I'LL CLIMB MOUNT EVEREST ALONE. 1957
Strangely captivating tale of the aviator who would have been killed earlier had he been able to carry out his plan to the death!
Scott & MacIntyre THE SHISHAPANGMA EXPEDITION. 1984
Joint winner of the 1984 Boardman Tasker prize for mountaineering literature
Shipton BLANK ON THE MAP. 1938
Some prefer Nanda Devi, but this is the greatest mountain exploration book.
Simpson TOUCHING THE VOID. 1989
The whole world have enjoyed this epic of a climber who lived to tell the tale. But what if he hadn't?
Slingsby NORWAY THE NORTHERN PLAYGROUND. 1904
By the 'Father' of Norwegian mountaineering.
Smith THE STORY OF MONT BLANC. 1853
Smith introduced the Alps to the masses, fortunately
Smythe CAMP SIX. 1937
Some would argue that this is the best Everest book and the best that the prolific Smythe wrote
Soper, Wilson & Crew THE BLACK CLIFF. 1971
Is this where Ken Wilson got his idea and do his co-authors deserve the credit for
what followed?
Steele ERIC SHIPTON. 1998
Peter Steele brings this complex man to life, but is there more to come?
Stephen THE PLAYGROUND OF EUROPE. 1871
Remained the benchmark for a few months and which still remains highly regarded.
Sutton & Noyce SAMSON. The Life and Writings of Menlove Edwards. 1961
Menlove - if only you'd made it to Everest.
Tasker SAVAGE ARENA. 1982
Tasker would undoubtedly have crafted more excellent mountain writing.
Tilman SNOW ON THE EQUATOR. 1937
Tilman. The best of all writers of mountaineering exploration and sailing also rode across Africa on a bicycle. He never told of his adventures upon his return, just telling others they would have to wait for the book!
Unsworth EVEREST. 1981
The first, the biggest and the best in terms of knowledgeable writing
Venables A SLENDER THREAD. 2000
A gripping tale of an arduous escape, on two broken legs, the remote Himalayan mountain Panchu Chilu V
Waller THE EVERLASTING HILLS. 1939
John Hunt's first Himalayan expedition
Walton THE PEAKS AND VALLEYS OF THE ALPS. 1867
One of, if not, the finest example of illustrations printed in colour. The result is stunning.
Ward EVEREST A THOUSAND YEARS OF EXPLORATION. 2003
Michael's epitaph - yet only 300 copies were printed and so out of print within weeks! Whymper's 'Scrambles' suffered the same fate, but was thankfully rectified.
Whipplesnaith THE NIGHT CLIMBERS OF CAMBRIDGE. 1937
Night Climbing in Cambridge! Why nobody has not written the Oxford equivalent I'll never know.
Whymper SCRAMBLES AMONGST THE ALPS IN THE YEARS 1860-69. 1871
The best mountaineering book of all. It has remained in print since Whymper made the first ascent of the Matterhorn!
Wilson CLASSIC ROCK. 1979
The forerunner of a classically inspired series.
Wright MOUNTAIN DAYS IN THE ISLE OF SKYE. 1934
Jerry Wright became a professional mountaineer after learning his craft on Skye.
Young MOUNTAIN CRAFT. 1920
'The classic of precept and practice'
Young ON HIGH HILLS. 1927
Surely one of the most influential of all mountaineering books. GWY tells wonderful stories
Young G.W., Sutton SNOWDON BIOGRAPHY. 1957
A full length mountain biography by three distinguished mountain writers.
End of Listing